Feb 1, 2010

Thailand: Phra Pathom Chedi, Nakhon Pathom





After the conclusion of the Third Buddhist Council, two monk Sona and Uttara were sent to Suvannabhumi (Land of the golden) for missionary activities.^ The massive orange-glazed stupa of Phra Pathom Chedi could be the place where Buddhism was first introduced into southeast asia.

The first glimpse of towering Phra Pathom Chedi is overpowering. It is one of the largest in the world and in Thailand, by far the most holy of all Buddhist structures. Reaching to sky for just half an inch less than 380 feet, the dome shines like pure gold in the sunlight. The highly glazed tiles covering the dome are golden brown in color and were brought from China.

At the four point of the compass in the outer courtyard are four Viharns (halls) containing image of Buddha in various postures. The Eastern Viharn shows the image of Buddha beneath a delicately painted. Pho tree which cover the entire wall behind the image and is very unusual. The inter room is a Royal Chapel containing an altar where the King pays homage. The Southern Vihara shows the images of Buddha protected by a serpent. The Western Viharn contains image of Buddha in a reclining position, just before his death, surrounded by disciples, and an inner room contains yet another reclining image. The Northern Viharn, directly in front of the entrance and across from the frame building where the guides are located, contains a standing image of Buddha. The ashes of King Vajiravudh are buried at the base of this image.

The Chedi, from the base, is a breath-taking sight. The first original structure, on this same site and now inside the Chedi, was built. It is believed by indianized Mon people and resembled the Indian Stupa of the third century era of King Asoke. During his reign, the first Buddhist Saints were sent to spread Buddhism in the Kingdom of Suwannaphum, the first capital of that Kingdom being located on the site of present-day Nakhon Pathom. Later, when the area came under Khmer control, the Stupa was repaired and over-built with a Brahmin Prang, 130 feet high. During the region of King Mongkut(Rama IV) in the middle 1800's, it was again over built in its present Chedi-style structure. A repair of the original Stupa stands south of the present Chedi.

While still a Buddhist monk, King Mongkut had made a pilgrimage to Nakhon Pathom to visit the old ruined Prang. When he came upon the old structure he was deeply impressed with the realization that this was the spot where Buddhism was first taught in Thailand. He thought undoubtedly there must be a Buddha's relic inside and he decided to have the Prang rebuilt. When he became King, he immediately ordered reparation commenced and the work started in 1853. He passed away before his dream of restoration came true but Kings following him carried on the program.

Source: ^Translated by Wilhelm Geiger, Mahavamsa : The great chronicle of Ceylon', Pali Text Society, 1912, Page 82 and 86

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